The Late 1940s saw a transformative experience in the fashion world, especially the dramatic introduction of the New Look—presented by your favorite French fashion designer, Christian Dior (1905—1957). Dior's New Look was well received by women because luxury and femininity were promised.
During the war—women wore pieces that weren't revealing their curves, making them less feminine. After the war, women expected silhouettes that they would celebrate their femininity and it was Dior himself who captured their minds and satisfied their desires.
On the other side of a coin—a legendary American designer, Claire McCardell (1905—1958) was changing the fashion world in the most wonderful way.
Reminding you that France was invaded by Germany around May 10 to June 25, 1940. Being said—France became an inactive fashion industry and lost its attention in fashion. French designers didn't work for a while and others were reported to fly to other countries.
Claire McCardell, a timeless designer—focused on designing ensembles that could be worn every day by busy women. In Fashion: The Mirror of History: McCardell is quoted as saying: "I belong to a mass production country where any of us, all of us, deserve the right to good fashion." The mind-blowing fact that proved her determination for dressing women in a classic manner.
The notable design among her first releases was a bias-cut dress—a gorgeous creation that Claire crafted with feminine power in mind. Bias-cut dresses featured a soft and flowing silhouette because the fabric is cut diagonally across the weave.
Another McCardell's hit was when she introduced popover dress—that featured a comfy silhouette propelling it to be the best candidate for indoor women's wear. You can tell that Claire McCardell understood the assignment when it comes to giving women limitless elegance possibilities. She added to women confidence, freedom and style. Due to her top-rated work, McCardell's designers were often referred to as The American Look.
Speaking about her work—Claire McCardell introduced the fundamental principles of simplicity and practicality which resulted in immaculate ensembles for women.
Apart from the flowy silhouette—McCardell's bias-cut dress also had other functional details such as adjustable waistlines and side pockets. Her dirndl skirts were slim at the waist and flared outward, the unique details that added an eye-catching silhouette. Women preferred to team flared skirts with tight tops and light sweaters.
Her ballerina leotards were so stretchy on body and flattered a wide range of bodies—helping women to feel better and comfortable about themselves. Claire McCardell also eliminated the girdle or restrictive undergarment emphasizing on ease of wear.
Claire McCardell integrated simple and stylish fabrics such as denim and wool jersey, a soft , stretchy woven fabric. Her work evolved to inspire tons of clothing manufacturers and their future work had strong ties with the American Look design ethos.
The concept of The American Look had a genuine influence in the United States and Europe in between 1940s and 1950s. Designers added a crucial element of comfortability to develop pieces that had a freedom of movement.
McCardell and other designers refined American Look mix-and-match sportswear, bathing suits, winter wear, coats and other items. While Dior's New Look emphasized practical accessories such as gloves and umbrellas—the case wasn't similar to American Look—the mentioned accessories were not subtle for a well-dressed American Look woman.
REFERENCES:
Batterberry, Michael, and Ariane Batterberry. Fashion: The Mirror of History. New York: Greenwich House, 1977.
Mulvagh, Jane. Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. New York: Viking, 1988.